Monday, April 3, 2017

Blue Denim

Blue Denim in downtown Greensboro has certainly found its stride. They're doing something unique to the area, specifically a Southern - Cajun - Creole hybrid. But the cuisine doesn't stop there: I noticed Asian and Mexican-influenced dishes on their menu. On one dining occasion, a low country boil was the nightly feature, complete with paper tablecloths! On another, a live bluegrass band entertained diners. Blue Denim is approaching their 2-year anniversary this fall, and they certainly have a lot to celebrate.

The cocktail list is limited, but I think this is more of a beer joint anyway, and they definitely don't disappoint there. My dining partner's "favorite beer of all time" is in stock - La Fin Du Monde - and at 9%, it was surprisingly too easy to drink. Starters are whimsical and not to be missed. They are famous for their Crawfish Beignets which are indeed tasty, but a little rich for my taste. I found too much batter to the crawfish and peppers that supposedly stud the delicate balls, but the "comeback sauce" makes anything great. I found the Delta Chinese Ribs to be one of the most unique rib preparations I've ever enjoyed. They're smoked and charred and fall off the bone. The char effect comes from the char siu technique - after they are slow-cooked, they are finished over a flame. YUM! I loved the tangy, molasses-like, five-spice-infused sauce that was drizzled on top - just the right amount. Peanuts and fresh cilantro totally brought the dish together. I highly recommend.

I had my first Crawfish Etouffee in New Orleans, arguably the best food city in the world, so I was eager to try Blue Denim's rendition. The base is made with a blonde roux, making it a little lighter in color than gumbo, but thicker than gumbo, too. (Not to be confused with jambalaya, which I would liken to Cajun paella). I lost count of the number of crawfish in my etouffee - there seemed to be hundreds of sweet little bites of the coral-colored fish! The rice was a little gummy and stuck together, which I loved. It didn't just break up and crumble into the stew. The dish had a slight heat to it, tingling in the back of my throat. Spring onions give the dish a pop of color and nice fresh bite. This is a large serving and it's even better the second day.

For a little Mexican-Cajun flavor, try the Duck Tamales. Tender duck confit is tucked inside delicate masa and covered with a rich, umami-forward mole sauce. Most mole sauces tend to be a little too sweet for me, but this had a nice balance of flavor. Tangy cotija cheese is sprinkled on top, and to make sure you get your greens, the tamales rest on a bed of cooked spinach. Jicama slaw comes alongside and is spice-based, not mayo- or vinegar-based, which was a welcome change and provided a wonderful crunch.

At one point in time, the menu featured New Orleans' famous style of barbeque shrimp with a dark, vinegary, buttery sauce. Blue Denim did a fabulous version of this, but it's missing from the menu as of late. I certainly hope they bring it back. I look forward to returning for the White Chocolate Pecan Bread Pudding, topped with Whiskey Creme Anglaise. (At the time of publication, the writer has given up bread for Lent, which sadly includes Bread Pudding!) I'll probably have my Easter brunch here, just for that dessert. And I'll get a po'boy to go alongside it.