Wednesday, March 6, 2013


Undercurrent has been a Greensboro favorite for years. Sheer curtains that drape ethereally over the walls, a romantic bar with hardwood floors and upscale "farmer’s market" cuisine make for a vastly enjoyable evening. I really appreciate when places offer small plates, especially smaller servings of entrees. This allows you to try more things without filling up too quickly, or dropping too much cash. After sharing three small plates, I definitely got my fill, and my wallet wasn’t too sore either.

Winos, be warned: you will adore the huge selection. I opted for a 2010 Decero Malbec from Mendoza, with ample berry notes present. Two styles of bread are presented, and I preferred the wheat – there was a cheesy element I couldn’t place! – to the crusty Italian. A bottle of olive oil, a dish of whipped butter and a bowl of parmesan shreds are served alongside the bread. What I thought was a random trio turned out to be a pretty irresistible combination.

Vegetable Napoleon stacks Herbed Phyllo with Butternut Squash Medallions, Smoked Onions and Brie, and is topped with a whimsical Arugula Salad that’s dressed with a Sea Salt-Honey Glaze. The salty and sweet balance is perfection. The brie melts beautifully on top of the butternut squash, and the herbed phyllo provides nice flavor and crunch. I wish this had been stacked to the ceiling.

The small version of the Grilled Carolina Rainbow Trout is plenty. Approximately 6 ounces of trout lays on a substantial bed of Ricotta Gnocchi, Kale, Roasted Butternut Squash and White Balsamic Aioli. Thankfully, the gnocchi didn’t disintegrate, as it tends to when made with ricotta, and the white balsamic aioli is the kicker here. Much like mayo, but tangier, this was a wonderful match to the Parsley-Sunflower Seed Pesto that was drizzled on top. I enjoyed the epicurean flavors here.

Shrimp and Bacon Tart is an appetizer special that I would eat any time of day. This was much like a quiche, but lighter and airier with a buttery crust. Greens are dressed with an almost too-sweet pomegranate vinaigrette, though it provided a necessary acidity.

Head to Undercurrent to share some small plates, or save up for one of their delicious-sounding entrée features. It's a spot to take your parents when they come visit, a second date, or a treat with your friends.

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