Tuesday, April 2, 2013

Jeffrey Adams on Fourth

What used to be one of my favorite restaurants in Winston-Salem is now Jeffrey Adams on Fourth. Noma held the coveted spot at the corner of Marshall and 4th Streets for 3 years until a dwindling business came to a halt. Adams brings pretty good food to the still-cool atmosphere, and it has proven to be the right place to go if you want a killer steak for a reasonable price. It’s run by expert management and an experienced chef, though the too-frequent checkbacks brings down service points.

Co-owner Jeffrey Bassett and General Manager Adam Andrews partnered together for Winston-Salem's beloved Fourth Street Filling Station. The pair swooped up Christopher Fulk, Executive Chef of what used to be Christopher’s Global Cuisine - a wise decision. Fulk's knowledge of ingredients and time in the kitchen is evident. The extensive wine list impressed me, but I was sold on the Cranberry Mojito. Pops of tartness from real cranberries balance out the sweetness of the cranberry juice, simple syrup and fresh mint. I appreciated this inventive take on a classic. Warm yeast rolls are served with herb butter, and it's difficult to have just one.

Pumpkin Ravioli is coated in a Goat Cheese Cream Sauce, with Sun-Dried Tomatoes, Dried Cranberries and a sprinkling of Nutmeg. I added Grilled Shrimp to the dish, to add a bit of sustenance - delicious, but not entirely necessary. The nutmeg is just enough to complement but not overpower the pumpkin. The tanginess of the goat cheese is mirrored in the cranberries, and this is a wonderful combination of seasonal flavors.

The steaks here are money, as in, they ROCK. But ironically, don’t cost a lot. New York Strip, Cowboy Rib Eye, Filets (4 or 8 ounces) and something fun called a Candy Bar Sirloin are your selections. (For those of you keeping tabs, the Candy Bar Sirloin is named that for its shape.) With my 4 ounce filet, perfectly seasoned, I had my choice of two sides. Smoked Gouda Macaroni and Cheese leaves a little something to be desired, but perhaps that’s just because I’m partial to my mom’s recipe. (Seriously, it’s the best.) I searched for the smokiness, and I’m not a fan of macaroni and cheese that feature breadcrumbs on top. Green Beans are a boring side, so go with the Garlic Spinach instead. The kicker for the steaks are the sauces and toppings. Sauteed Port Mushrooms and Onions are outstanding. The saltiness enhances the flavor of the meat, and the glaze drips down the sides.

Jeffrey Adams is on the right track. They definitely have the best location in downtown; now it’s just a matter of keeping consistently good food coming out of the kitchen.

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