Thursday, October 27, 2016

The Traveled Farmer

The restaurant formerly known as Marshall Free House in Greensboro is getting a brand-new concept. Next month, it will become The Traveled Farmer, led by Chef Jay Pierce and mixologist Mark Weddle. The team, along with Marty Kotis, will emphasize local foods, highlighting farmers and seasonal produce, and best of all, they're even planning to have a mini farmer's market in the restaurant! "Why wait in farmer's market lines on the weekends?" they thought - you can stop by the Traveled Farmer for lunch or dinner and pick up some collards and butter while you're there! They'll even have a case of prepared foods like pimiento cheese, chicken salad and housemade crackers. They've pretty much thought of it all. And if their recent preview is indicative of the creativity and quality of food they're going to offer, we're all in for a real treat.

The menu is a sampling of dishes from around the globe. Chef Pierce remarked that people tend to associate "local" and "farm-to-table" restaurants solely with Southern food. This is not always the case. Just looking at the menu, I recognized dishes from Mexico, Korea, China, Italy, and since we are of course in NC, the South. "NOT Pimiento Cheese" combines aged white cheddar cheese with green chiles, and is served with housemade crackers, pickled okra and pickled green tomatoes. This is my kind of spread - spicy, tangy, with a bite, unlike some heavy mayo-based pimiento cheeses that tend to be on the sweet side. The dish got its name because too many people were asking where the red pimientos were, and didn't think the green chiles were an acceptable substitute for it to truly be considered pimiento cheese. Call it what you want, it's fabulous.
Pickled okra and green tomatoes with housemade crackers and NOT pimiento cheese

One of my favorite dishes of the night was the "Street" Shrimp, though they were more like Shrimp Tacos or lettuce wraps. The fried shrimp had an incredibly flavorful batter - some of the best I've ever had - and believe me, growing up in the South, I've had a lot of fried shrimp. About 3 or 4 beauties rest in a lettuce leaf, with Valentina hot sauce and a creamy white sauce drizzled on top. Blistered corn, queso fresco and sliced radishes round out the dish. Three come in a serving - they are incredibly satiating. You could easily make this a meal.
"Street" Shrimp

Rare Tuna Tostadas present three beautifully rare pieces of ahi tuna on a crisp tortilla shell. The chipotle glaze and ancho aioli bring some serious heat, but they're more spice-forward than heat-forward, if that makes sense. Avocado is nice and smooth and cooling. Cabbage provides crunch, and a squirt of lime is just what you need to balance the flavors. You get two in a serving here.
Rare Tuna Tostadas

Mixologist Mark Weddle is pretty well-known in the national Bloody Mary competition world, so when he appeared with a tray of Reposado Tequila and Carrot Juice bloodies, I could hardly contain my excitement. The rim is Old Bay seasoning, and the heat comes from horseradish and black pepper. This drink is called "The Wild Hair" and it is absolutely wild in the best way.
The Wild Hair

Brussels Sprouts could NOT be more trendy right now, which is lucky for me, because I love them. Chef Pierce makes his shaved, pan-roasted Brussels a satisfying vegetarian meal all on its own. He adds mushrooms for texture and meatiness, sherry vinaigrette and chile for depth of flavor, and the best part - salty, crispy leaves for crunch. This dish is a fabulous texture ride.
Pan-roasted Brussels
Broccoli Pasta sounds just like what you think it is, but it's so much more exciting because of the warm Caesar vinaigrette and fresh pecorino cheese. Angel hair pasta from Drake's in High Point gets coated with these tasty flavors, with a pop of al dente broccoli for texture and color. Another satisfying vegetarian option, that even tastes light and healthy.
Broccoli Pasta

As if we had room for much more, we moved onto the entrees. I think Chef Pierce served us his pan-roasted Chicken Breast with Sweet Potatoes, Creamed Collards and Country Ham to remind us that there is beauty in simplicity. The chicken was perfectly seasoned (with just salt & pepper I believe) and was so tender - not overcooked. The collards screamed flavors of rosemary, which caught me by surprise, but anyone who thinks they don't like collards are sure to enjoy these. The sweet potatoes were cut into rounds and sauteed, perhaps flash fried, but otherwise left in their natural state. The pretty pink china plate might have been the prettiest part of this dish, but it's a reminder that you can taste the love in simple dishes, and they can be truly pleasing.
Pan-roasted chicken breast with sweet potatoes, creamed collards and country ham

Perhaps my favorite dish of the night was the Korean Bowl. This is something I don't make for myself at home (I don't make most of what we ate at home, either!) but this felt like a special treat. Charred Pork with Gochujang, Greens "Kimchi", Shiitake Mushrooms, Pickled Turnips, and a beautiful Soft-Boiled Egg sat atop a bowl of delicious sticky rice. A dining companion remarked that the rice was not sticky enough for her liking, and that it crumbled too easily, but this diner didn't have an issue. In fact, I liked that it was only slightly gummy, and thought the flavor was fantastic. Again - I'm not sure how many times in my life I've thought rice was so tasty! Beauty in simplicity! The greens "kimchi" was super salty, not tangy like you'd expect to find with kimchi, but the pickled turnips gave me the acid I was looking for. And the best part was breaking the soft egg yolk to coat everything with its beautiful yellow blanket.

Korean Bowl

Just when we thought we were about to pop, mixologist Mark appeared with little saucers with a few Cocoa Puffs - yes, the kid cereal - in each one. This cereal fanatic was freakin'. We were instructed to pour a carafe of vodka, butterscotch schnapps and kahlua on top of the puffs, and drink out of the bowl, as if we were drinking the cereal milk like we did in our youth (or this morning). The whimsical drink is aptly named The Cereal Killer, and it truly is killer. Alongside, we enjoyed a chocolate cake with chocolate mousse frosting, to make it extra moist and rich. The best part was the earthy banana caramel that cut through the richness.
Chocolate Cake and The Cereal Killer
Are you impressed? I left with my jaw still on the floor. I cannot wait to see what else these guys have in store, and to try other fabulous-sounding items on their menu, like Eggdrop Soup with a soft egg and cilantro, or the Sweet Potato Dumplings with Blue Cheese and Candied Pecans. Their hard work on this new concept is evident. They should be very proud, and you should be very excited.

Thursday, October 20, 2016

The Girl On The Train

Starring: Emily Blunt, Justin Theroux, Allison Janney, Haley Bennett
Director: Tate Taylor
Running Time: 1 hour, 52 minutes 
Rating: R

There are only a few books out there that have given me the heebie-jeebies. The Girl On The Train by Paula Hawkins was one of them. I couldn't read it before bed, which was a problem, because I couldn't put it down. I absolutely loved this book - all the drama, twists and turns kept me guessing until the last few chapters. I was skeptical when I heard they were making this into a movie, and as per usual, I thought the book was better. But maybe I didn't enjoy the build-up to the climax of the movie because I already knew what was going to happen. Regardless, I thought it was a pretty good, not great, interpretation, but if you haven't read the book, you're sure to enjoy the film. If you saw or read "Gone Girl", this story is in the same vein.

The book is divided into parts with 3 narrators: Rachel, Anna and Megan. All of these women are flawed, if not slightly maniacal. The timeline in the book is easy to follow, but I felt like it was a little difficult to keep up with in the movie. While Rachel (read: Emily Blunt) gets the majority of the screen time, the book gives us more time to get to know Anna and Megan. Their stories overlap significantly, seemingly incestual, and the flashbacks keep you guessing "who did what and who and when?" A friend I saw this with muttered out loud a few times "I'm so confused."

Blunt plays a pretty convincing alcoholic (Rachel) who rides a train everyday into Manhattan. Rachel has developed a somewhat ridiculous obsession with a woman (Megan) she sees from the train, who lives in the house next to Rachel's former house she shared with her ex-husband, Tom. He still lives there, with the woman he had an affair with, Anna, and their new baby. Megan is Tom and Anna's former nanny. Still with me? I told you it's a bit incestual.

Rachel drunk dials Tom and Anna and shows up at their house frequently, but doesn't remember doing this half the time, because she is totally wasted. We feel sorry for Rachel and her sad life, but it's easy to empathize with Tom after we see flashbacks of Rachel's violent behavior and drunken stupors.

One evening, after too many martinis and a nalgene bottle full of vodka, Rachel embarks on a blurry journey into Tom and Anna's neighborhood, and comes in contact with who is seemingly Megan, but we really can't tell as we're seeing this through Rachel's fuzzy and distorted point of view. It's actually unclear whether or not this occurrence took place, or if Rachel is imagining things in her blackout state. The next day, Megan is reported missing, and both the audience and Rachel begin questioning everything that happened that night.

The lead up to the climax is a bit too long, and the climax itself is a touch too short. Justin Theroux doesn't get enough screen time as Tom, same with Allison Janney as the detective. It would also have been nice to have a plethora of suspects, like the book presents. It's worth a watch, though, especially if you're into bone-chilling movies during the Halloween season!

Tuesday, October 4, 2016

Triad Local First: Community Table


If you're unfamiliar with the nonprofit Triad Local First in Greensboro, I'm here to tell you that the group is doing some very exciting stuff. The organization is a network of locally owned and independent businesses in the Triad, committed to building a strong, local economy and a vibrant community (which I think is important to all of us these days.) Each year, TLF's Community Table fundraiser dinner brings together people who want to advance the organization's mission, all the while having some pretty spectacular locally-sourced food. This year's Community Table was at Hidden Lane Farm in Summerfield, which could not have been a more beautiful location for this event.
With two of my favorite food bloggers! Kristi Maier (triadfoodies) and Nikki Miller-Ka (Nik Snacks)
It was incredibly inspiring to see so many people come together for a good cause, and one they are passionate about. I got chills hearing Executive Chef Travis Myers and 2015's Executive Chef Tim Thompson speak about the impact this organization has on the community, and it's a great reminder that we should continue to bridge the gaps between Winston-GSO-High Point, to make the Triad thrive. The caliber of chefs that showed up for this was top-notch: Chefs Richard Miller (Graze), John Bobby (A Noble Grille), Jared Keiper (The Tavern in Old Salem), James Patterson (Sedgefield Country Club), Janis Karathanas (Providence Restaurant), the aforementioned Tim Thompson (Greensboro Country Club) and Travis Myers (Willow's Bistro), among many others. Needless to say, the food was sensational.
Plates are ready!
When I arrived, I was greeted with Grilled Oysters with Tomato Foam, and spotted a huge dish of Paella cooking away. It's not everyday you find legit paella in this hemisphere! It was studded with mussels, shrimp, chicken and sausage, with a savory saffron sauce. I loaded up on it. TOPO Organic Spirits was in the mix, offering up 3 cocktails featuring their whiskey, vodka and my favorite: gin. The Spicy Cucumber Lemonade had a bright and spicy earthiness - I had 2! Beer lovers got to sample Pig Pounder Brewery, while winos tasted some selections from Zeto. They also provided the wine for the evening - a slightly sweet Vouvray and a tasty red Zin.
Drinks courtesy of TOPO Distillery
Paella
Grilled Oysters
With a belly full of gin and paella, I didn't know how to begin pacing myself for the start of 9 courses. But try I must, because I had been watching a giant kettle of Brunswick Stew cook over a fire since I arrived. This wasn't your average Brunswick Stew, either. It had rabbit, pork, butter beans, corn and OKRA! It was slighly sweet, and a perfect consistency.
Cooking the stew!
Brunswick Stew
The pacing of the evening was perfect. Not long after the stew, a colorful dish of Panzanella appeared, family-style. Heirloom Tomatoes, Pea Shoots, Olives, Peppers and Charred Bread were nestled together in a tangy vinaigrette. This is the epitome of a summer dish. Heck, it's a great dish anytime of the year.
Panzanella
For the record, there is no wrong way to eat lamb. But when it is pit-cooked, it is especially delicious. The rosemary mop (sauce) and hoppin' John that accompanied it made for a really beautiful balance of flavors. I was worried the rosemary would overpower the natural flavor of the lamb, but it brought out earthy, almost floral notes in the meat. To highlight some of our local vegetables, we had an Heirloom Tomato and Flat Bean Salad, served family-style. Ripe tomatoes, haricot verts and wax beans were drizzled with olive oil, sprinkled with scallion ash, with tangy wedges of Goat Lady Dairy Goat Cheese. The cheese could have easily been the star of the show, but the freshness of the vegetables and difference in textures made for a really delightful dish.

Heritage Farms Lexington-Style Pit Cooked Hog paid homage to the amazing, vinegary pulled pork we all love here in the South. Notes of wood and smoke remind you that the chefs had been putting some TLC into this one all day. Old Mill of Guilford's creamy yellow grits were a perfect accompaniment and absorbed the flavors of the pork. Shredded kale rounded out the plate, and I found them comparable to collards. The slight bitterness helped break up the richness of the dish. This is Southern bliss on a plate.

Course #8 of 9 was naturally one of the most decadent. Three hour braised Short Ribs had a savory umami flavor that was impossible to resist. Just when I thought I couldn't eat another bite, this tender meat literally crumbled under my fork. The mashed potatoes were not just a side either; they were a perfect vessel for the jus and leather britches (dried green beans). I didn't think I was going to make it through another meat course, but I did. And I'm so glad I didn't look back.
Braised Short Ribs
I have grown to love a good dessert wine, so when a Muscat (much like a Moscato) was offered alongside the Orange Creamsicle Mousse Cake, I was tickled. The wine on its own is incredibly sweet; with the dessert, oddly enough, it cut through the sweetness of the dish. The star of the dessert was the brown butter vanilla shortbread cookie adorning the top of the mini mason jar. Citrus was a perfect way to end this meal, and a charred citrus confit helped cap off this amazing Southern - soul food - pig pickin' dinner.
Orange Creamsicle Mousse Cake
Tickets to Community Table sell out each year, so you'll want to have this on your radar for 2017. The location and chef are TBD right now, but you know Triad Local First and the chefs in the Triad will continue to raise the bar for this outstanding event. I was so proud to be part of it. And I'm still full.

Friday, September 30, 2016

Got to Be NC Competition Dining Series - Battle of the Champions

It's championship time, y'all. The Got To Be NC Competition Dining Series is heating up with the Battle of Champions in Raleigh, November 11-20! This event will feature the best of the best, and you know these tickets will fly the moment they go on sale.

I love this event - all foodies would - and if you haven't been to a battle in your region, this is your last chance of the year to go! You'll serve as a judge at this 6 course meal, where two ingredients have to be featured in each dish. You don't know the ingredients until you're seated at the table and trust me, this year's ingredient combos have been pretty spectacular.

Tickets go on sale this Monday, October 3 at 7pm - and don't wait to purchase them! This is the hottest battle of them all. Get more information on where to get your tickets here and check out the official press release below!


Got to Be NC Competition Dining Series Announces Chef Bracket and Ticket Sales
for Battle of Champions in Raleigh Nov. 11 to 20

Raleigh, North Carolina – Sept. 29, 2016 – The Got to Be NC Competition Dining Series, a single-elimination tournament highlighting the best of the Carolina’s food, agriculture and culinary talent, is gearing up for its Battle of Champions series in which six top North Carolina chef teams will battle it out to take home the coveted annual championship title. Foodies from around North Carolina and beyond are invited to attend the five live dinner events Nov. 11 to 20 in Raleigh, savoring the full-service, six-course meals and serving as judges. Tickets to these interactive battles go on sale Monday, Oct. 3 at 7 p.m. at www.competitiondining.com and are guaranteed to sell out quickly.

The six chef teams competing in the Got to Be NC Competition Dining Series Battle of Champions each won their local series to earn a place in the championship. The bracket includes:
·       Friday, Nov. 11 Dinner
o   Team Egg Heads from Durham: Scott Schabot, Keith Calise and Tad Balio, Another Broken Egg Café chefs.

o   Team Sedgefield Culinary Crushers from Greensboro: James R. Patterson III, Sedgefield Country Clubexecutive chef; Isaac Spencer, Sedgefield Country Club chef; and Tim Alston Sedgefield Country Club lead cook.

·       Saturday, Nov. 12 Dinner
o   Team Ceviche’s from Wilmington: Sam Cahoon, executive chef of Ceviche’s in Wrightsville Beach; and Edson Juarez and Eric Smith, sous chefs at Ceviche’s.

o   Team Vidalia Boom from Winston-Salem: Sam Ratchford, co-owner and executive chef at Vidalia Restaurantin Boone; Julius Kalman, Vidalia Restaurant co-owner; and Jason Walsh, Vidalia Restaurant chef.

·       Sunday, Nov. 13 Dinner
o   Team Radical Range Riders from Charlotte: Adam Reed, owner and chef at Sante' of Matthews in Matthews; Terra Ciotta, culinary instructor and chef at Artisan Restaurant in Charlotte; and Jess Cochran, culinary instructor at Central Piedmont Community College in Charlotte.

o   Team Mirepoix from Raleigh: Franz Propst, executive chef at Peak City Grill & Bar in Apex; Ryan Summers, chef at Chef's Palette Restaurant and Bar in Cary; and Tom Halik, chef and proprietor at Main Street Grille Café & Bakery in Wake Forest.

·       Friday, Nov. 18 Dinner
o   Nov. 11 winning team versus Nov. 12 winning team

·       Sunday, Nov. 20 Grand Finale Dinner
o   Nov. 13 winning team versus Nov. 18 winning team

Each of the Battle of Champions dinner events, just as at all dinners throughout the year-long series, includes two chef teams battling it out preparing three courses centered on a featured North Carolina ingredient that is revealed only an hour before they start cooking that day. Unlike any other cooking competition, attendees vote on each dish using their smart devices, and ultimately help determine who moves on to the next round and who goes home. New to the competition this year, the creation of All-Star Dream Teams allows chefs from different restaurants to partner together for the three-person teams, upping the potential caliber and creating a more fun and competitive atmosphere for all.

“This year’s Battle of Champions is certain to bring dynamic competition and delicious food throughout the five dinner events,” said Jimmy Crippen, Competition Dining Series founder and host. “The level of culinary talent and exceptional creativity in each of our 2016 local series blew us away and we can’t wait to see what these skilled chef teams serve up in the annual championship. Foodies won’t want to miss this ultimate culinary showdown!”

As they move on to the Battle of Champions, the six chef teams will all compete for bragging rights and a grand prize of $4,000 in cash and prizes. Each winning team member will also take home a handcrafted chef knife by Ironman Forge and a 40-quart Grizzly cooler,compliments of Joyce Farms. All Battle of Champions events are held at NC State’s Dorothy & Roy Park Alumni Center located at 2450 Alumni Dr. in Raleigh, North Carolina.

Tickets for the Nov. 11, 12, 13 and 18 battles are $119 each, and tickets for the grand finale battle, Nov. 20, are $139 each. Learn more and buy tickets starting Monday, Oct. 3 at 7 p.m. at www.competitiondining.com/events/battle-of-champions.

About The Got to Be NC Competition Dining Series
The Got to Be NC Competition Dining Series is sponsored by the NC Department of Agriculture & Consumer Services, Pate Dawson-Southern Foods, Certified Angus Beef®, Freshness from North Carolina Waters, Joyce Farms, Goodnight Brothers, Pepsi Bottling Ventures, ALSCO, Swisher Hygiene and local and regional partners throughout the state. The goal of the series is to celebrate North Carolina products and agriculture, and to showcase the culinary ingenuity and talent across the state. For more information, visitwww.competitiondining.com or get in on the conversation at www.facebook.com/competitiondining and @CompDiningNC on Twitteror Instagram.

Sunday, September 25, 2016

Tessa Farm to Fork

How do I love thee, Tessa Farm to Fork? Let me count the ways. This place is less than a mile from my house and one of my new favorite restaurants in Greensboro. Tessa specializes in seasonal menus featuring locally sourced ingredients. Prices are reasonable, the space is bright and quaint, it's simple yet elegant. Service is great, and you can tell management knows what they're doing. I am so excited for them to be entering in their 8th month and can't wait to taste more from them.

Menus change fairly frequently, so I'll recap some of what I've sampled over the past month. At lunch, the Hickory Nut Gap Pulled Pork Sandwich piles a huge mound of savory pulled pork onto a brioche bun, where one side is slathered with whole grain mustard, and one side is spread with tangy blackberry jam. I adore the sweet and savory flavor combo this creates. Finally, a place that understands my condiment obsession! Sides are exciting, ranging from Broccoli and Bacon Salad to Curried Zucchini and Onions.

Grilled Shrimp Tacos
The Candied Beet Salad does honor to the vegetable, adding pickled onion, Thai basil and cashews for an Asian flare. When you add grilled shrimp, you get 7, and they have a nice charred flavor. The Seasonal Berry Salad combines plump blackberries and blueberries with almond chevre cheese and pork belly batons - a chewy and smoky "crouton". Tessa's housemade dressings are a nice change from your standard restaurant options. Orange, Carrot & Ginger or Cilantro & Sundrop anyone? Kudos to the chefs for thinking up such fun combos!

At dinner, Shrimp Tacos can be tempura or grilled (I prefer the latter) and chipotle greens (I'm thinking swiss chard) and a citrus aioli fill the corn tortilla. The greens could have been cooked a little longer, but who am I kidding? I'm a shredded iceberg lettuce on a taco kind of gal, and these are definitely more upscale. The Lemongrass and Purple Garlic Braised Beef is really just a tender beef brisket. Lots of savory flavor, but I missed the earthiness and umami from the promised ingredients. The cilantro, pickled onions, peanuts and butternut squash fries definitely made this dish exciting though!

Beef Brisket 
Brunch is killer, most notably the specials. I'm talking a Fried Oyster Benedict with 6 crispy oysters on a soft, buttery biscuit, topped with fried eggs and pico de gallo. This is one of the best brunch items I have ever had. I appreciated the biscuit over an english muffin, and fried oysters > Canadian bacon any day. Most entrees are served with roasted potatoes, like fried potato cubes, sprinkled with sea salt, and a housemade molasses-ey ketchup. Scrumptious.

Weekday breakfast begins at 7:30am, Tuesday - Friday. I order Huevos Rancheros whenever it's an option, and Tessa's rendition is excellent: housemade chorizo, pico de gallo, refried black beans, queso fresco and sunny side up eggs between a crisp tostada? This is my heaven. Pancakes are thin and not too sweet, so you don't feel guilty having 1 or 2. You even get complimentary seasonal mini muffins. This is the best place to start your day.
Pumpkin Chocolate Chip Cake
The pastry chef at Tessa slays desserts. Caramel Banana Cake is a pound cake studded with walnuts, and glazed with a light caramel sauce. The Pumpkin Chocolate Chip Cake with cream cheese frosting is adorned with a brown butter, salted shortbread cookie. It's insanely good. Check out the chalkboard for rotating options.

Beauty in simplicity and local, is what Tessa does best. I strongly suggest you check it out as quickly as possible.

Tuesday, September 20, 2016

The Light Between Oceans

Starring: Michael "my love" Fassbender, Alicia Vikander, Rachel Weisz 
Director: Derek Cianfrance
Running Time: 2 hours, 13 minutes
Rating: PG-13

I had been dying to see "The Light Between Oceans" since the debut of Michael Fassbender and Alicia Vikander as a real-life couple last winter. I knew their on-screen chemistry would be palpable, and I got teary-eyed each time I saw the trailer. When I realized Derek Cianfrance was behind this production, I was even more thrilled (Cianfrance directed the gut-wrenching "Blue Valentine" and the haunting but fabulous "The Place Beyond The Pines"). "The Light Between Oceans" is gorgeous - both the coastal lighthouse setting AND the leads - and if it hadn't come out too soon to really be considered for awards, I would expect acting, directing, musical score and cinematography wins.

Fassbender plays Tom Shelbourne, a widower hired to be a lighthouse keeper right out of World War I. He catches the eye of a local girl, Isabel, and their attraction and curiosity is instant. Isabel is a quick thinker, and finds her way into Tom's heart before he can even say "lighthouse." The two seem very content in their little home, isolated from the rest of the world, but to them, they are each others' worlds. You can feel their joy.

Two of Vikander's strongest scenes (and keep in mind, she steals every scene) portray her miscarriages. It is utterly heartbreaking, and Tom feels helpless. When a baby in a small boat washes ashore, it immediately lifts her spirits, while Tom thinks of the danger and consequences of not reporting this odd occurrence. Isabel's hold over Tom forces him into agreeing to keep the baby to raise as their own. Life continues to be good for this family, though we know it can't be forever.

Ultimately, the mother of the baby (now 4 years old) is revealed. Rachel Weisz is beautifully understated as Hannah, who assumes her husband and newborn were lost at sea. Clues lead the authorities to Tom and Isabel, and Hannah is reunited with her child. We feel for the little girl - she clearly does not want to be with a strange woman, but she was the victim of a kidnapping. Director Cianfrance does an excellent job of allowing us to see both parties' perspectives.

I absolutely adored this film. It's one of my favorites of the year. Eye candy, tears, goosebumps - this movie has it all. It reminds me how gorgeous Fassbender's eyes are, and how unstoppable Vikander is becoming in Hollywood. Go see this movie.


Sunday, August 28, 2016

The Katherine Brasserie

There's a lot of new and exciting things happening in downtown Winston-Salem, one of the most noteworthy being the new Kimpton Cardinal Hotel in the former RJ Reynolds building. The Cardinal is both hotel and residential, and has a swanky, old-school vibe. When I walked into the hotel's French restaurant, The Katherine Brasserie, it immediately reminded me of the cafes I stumbled upon in Paris. The ambiance is quite authentic, including the noise level, which I quickly got used to. The bar isn't just for fabulous cocktails, it's also a raw bar with oysters being shucked right alongside the squeezing of limes. It's a new addition to downtown, and it was packed, as you would imagine.
The bar at The Katherine
The dining room
Service is excellent - my glass water was never empty - and there are several people looking out for you and making sure you have a great experience. The Katherine's cocktail list offers both house creations and classic renditions. You'd be wise to start with one. Housemade brown sugar simple syrup makes the already tasty Mint Julep even more special. Warm French bread is served with soft, salty butter and ties you over as you await one of their delicious starters. The Baked Escargot seemed like the most obvious choice, and we were intrigued by the Southern twist. Six tender snails are served in an herbaceous butter they call the Maitre D'Butter, which on its own is a flavor bomb. The best part is a slightly sweet hush puppy that tops the escargot! Break open the hush puppy to absorb even more of the slightly briny, garlicky butter. I saw several orders of this being taken to tables throughout the course of the evening. This is one of their signature dishes, and it is a hit.
Escargot with Hush Puppies!
Though not an entree, I had my eyes on the Seared Sea Scallops from the moment I looked at the menu. Tender, plump scallops are cooked perfectly (one of the best things in the world!) and they sit atop a black truffle and english pea risotto, and drizzled with beurre rouge, a tangy pink sauce. The risotto is luscious and rich, and peas are the perfect color and texture addition to this dish. I wish this had been an entree portion, but it is so decadent that it's probably best to remain an appetizer!
Sea Scallops, Risotto and Buerre Rouge
I paired the scallops with another small plate saturated with truffles - do you see a theme here?  (Longtime C&S readers will remember that I'm obsessed with anything that has truffles.) The Heirloom Tomato Salad seemed seasonally perfect. Thick, meaty and ripe tomatoes are scattered with persillade (parsley and seasonings), lentils, shaved summer truffles, and the most fabulous truffle vinaigrette. I couldn't help but dip my bread in the remaining vinaigrette that lingered on the plate.
Heirloom Tomato Salad
The Bistro Filet is 8 ounces and $21, as opposed to the Filet Mignon, which is 10 ounces and $38. I was eager to see if the Bistro Filet would be as tender and flavorful as the always fabulous Filet Mignon - and it was! It had a savory crust, and was a perfect medium rare. Accompanying sauce options include Bearnaise, Bourbon Peppercorn, Red Wine Jus or a $5 supplement Foie Gras sauce. The Red Wine Jus was tangy and paired nicely with our Cabernet and the natural flavors of the filet. Sides are traditionally frites, but you can substitute for other tasty offerings, like the Jalapeno Creamed Sweet Corn. I detected more sweet notes than spicy ones, but it was still a hearty and flavorful dish.

I'm very impressed with this place, and I'm thrilled for all the excitement surrounding Winston these days. I'll definitely return to The Katherine, but I better hurry before there's a 6 month wait in reservations!

Monday, August 15, 2016

Salvino Cucina Italiana

I've driven past Salvino Cucina Italiana in Greensboro nearly everyday for the past 4 years. After several recommendations from friends all across the Triad, I decided I was long overdue for a visit. This place is a local favorite and somewhat of a hidden gem: it's located in a strip mall, off of Battleground Road, in a pretty unassuming spot. But on a Friday night in August, every single table was full. Reservations are strongly encouraged. The word is out - ask anyone who has been and they'll agree that Salvino is fantastic.

The first time I had escargot was in Paris at the Moulin Rouge. It doesn't get much more authentic than that, but Salvino has an outstanding rendition of this appetizer. 6 tender snails are sauteed in butter, garlic and shallots and served in a dish with individual cups that encourages you to dip their homemade bread in each little nook to get every bite of buttery goodness. If you haven't had escargot, Salvino is a great place to start. They remind me of mussels, both texturally and flavor-wise, but one of my dining partners remarked that they're less briny than the seafood. This is a hit.

I was advised to get the Pasta & Fagioli Soup over the salad when given the option. Cannellini beans and spaghetti noodles swim in a smoky broth made from housemade chicken stock. That's what makes this soup so special, not to mention the underlying notes of bacon. The broth would be good on its own, but the beans and noodles give it great texture.

Linguine Pescatore is my go-to in Italian restaurants. Coppola's in Winston-Salem and Giada's Trattoria in Kernersville have great renditions, but Salvino takes it to another level. The linguine is perfectly al dente and coated in a simple garlicky, buttery, thin marinara sauce. It's studded with shrimp, scallops, clams and mussels. There's just a pop of heat to make me notice and appreciate it. I love this dish and Salvino has my new favorite version.

One of the specials that evening was Branzini, a white fish seared just long enough to get a slightly crispy crust. It was served with angel hair pasta, asparagus and tomatoes, making for a nice and light summer dish. While this was good, the special that slayed the Branzini was the Lamb Shank. The server joked that he wouldn't bring a knife for this dish because it was so tender. It literally slid right off the bone. It had an incredibly unctuous umami flavor, and the mashed potatoes that came with it were garlicky and way better than a boring old mash. The brown gravy brought out the natural savory flavor of the meat, and roasted carrots and green beans had just a bit of sweetness to balance the dish. I would get this anytime it's available.

While it's never been on my must-have list, fans of Veal should get the Vitello al Marsala. It won't leave you hungry. 3 veal cutlets are served in a Marsala wine sauce, with mushrooms and spaghetti giving nice texture to the dish. Marsala is one of those polarizing flavors, but there's no denying that when it's done right, it has an incredible depth of savory and almost tangy flavor. In case you couldn't guess, Salvino does it right.

Limoncello is one of my favorite things in the world. When it's combined with mascarpone cheese and frosted onto a yellow cake, you can call me a happy girl. This housemade dessert presents a moist cake with a bright pop of lemon, but the mascarpone makes it just rich enough that you don't inhale every bite. It's so pretty too, nice and light and yellow!

Salvino would be a great first date place, a nice spot to take your parents, or even a place to host a rehearsal or retirement dinner in the private room. The bar area is separated from the rest of the restaurant so you could just post up with a Dirty Martini and an order of escargot and watch the game! That's probably what I'll be doing this weekend. I can't wait to go back.

Monday, August 8, 2016

LaRue Elm

LaRue Elm Restaurant in downtown Greensboro has some new digs, and the community could not be more excited for this team. They've moved from across the street from the Carolina Theatre to the old Blu Margarita spot in NoMar (North of Market) and had just over a month to make this transition. To further put things in perspective, Chef Trey Bell says their new kitchen is larger than their old restaurant! Their new spot is spacious, with ample seating, and it was packed for the soft opening last week. Pops of color like turquoise and seawater blue line the walls, and there's live music, too! Servers use flat iPads instead of large glowing computer screens to manage orders. It's clear they thought of just about everything to make this new space their dream home.

Can you spot who made LaRue's instagram?
Peeking into the kitchen!

Upon being seated, slices of mini brioche with chicken stock-infused whipped butter and microgreens arrived to the table. This is a giant leap up from frozen dinner rolls that you might find at other restaurants. The sweetness of the brioche was a nice balance to the umami flavor found in the butter.
Brioche with Whipped Butter
The wine list is extensive and contained many selections I was unfamiliar with, but Chef Bell is incredibly knowledgeable about wine - I knew anything we chose wouldn't disappoint. The menu is broken up into three sections - starters, small plates and entrees. The starter simply named "Roots" combines microgreens with Chevre cheese, sweet balsamic vinegar, beets and what I believe were turnips. It's incredible how something so simple can have such a gorgeous presentation, a variety in textures and a perfectly balanced combination of flavors.
Roots!

The Foie Gras a la Paul ingeniously combines slightly sweet banana bread with savory, succulent foie gras. The bread reminded me of French Toast, and the tangy gastrique is almost like maple syrup. My favorite starter was the Pork Belly - I don't recall ever having pork belly this tender! It was cooked perfectly, not chewy or rubbery, which can sometimes be problematic with this protein. It's served with grilled zucchini for crunch, and citrus for some acid. Each plate was tastier and more beautiful than the last.
Banana Bread + Foie Gras
Pork Belly

LaRue's selection of entrees offers something for everyone. I was excited to see Drum, a flaky white fish, on the menu. It's like a fish steak, one of the less common fish we see on menus around here. The caramelized leeks made the dish. They were buttery and tender, and took it to the next level. As did the Romesco sauce, a personal favorite. It's traditionally made with roasted red peppers and almonds - YUM.
Drum with Romesco and Leeks

Fans of duck will enjoy LaRue's presentation: 4 thick medallions cooked a beautiful medium rare, with a hint of spice - maybe Chinese Five Spice? - and notes of orange. It's served with tender lentils, which makes for a hearty dish.
Duck with Lentils

My tablemates agreed that the Rabbit was the star of the entree show. We called it "rabbit paella" because of the Freekeh (a grain) and peas, that provided a perfect pop of color and texure. Notes of mustard and truffle also make this dish outstanding. Bet you can't have just one bite!

We felt it our duty to sample both dessert offerings, to please chocoholics and vanilla lovers alike. It's hard to mess up Creme Brulee, and I especially liked how the buttery, slightly nutty, crunchy top had flavors reminiscent of Cinnamon Toast Crunch. (I mean this as a sincere compliment. I adore CTC.)

A "deconstructed macaron" will satisfy those with the strongest chocolate cravings. Chocolate ice cream (or gelato, perhaps) is enrobed in chocolate ganache, with a thin chocolate disk and some sort of chocolate sponge cake. This is all incredibly rich. It gets a touch of color and acid from fresh raspberries. Both desserts disappeared before I had time to take photos. You could say we were pleased.

I am so excited for the crew at LaRue. I also hope they are ready - people will be coming in droves. I think they've hit the nail on the head with this one.

Sunday, July 31, 2016

Hutch & Harris

I hadn't been to Hutch & Harris in downtown Winston-Salem in nearly 10 years. This wasn't intentional of course, it's just not one of the few places I MUST visit when I find myself in Winston, which is not nearly as often as I'd like it to be. Their renovations and expansion of the SideBar got me interested in a repeat visit, as well as a few photos of their brunch Bloody Marys in Winston-Salem Monthly Magazine. The expansion is beautiful - it would be a great place for happy hour or game-watching, and at Sunday brunch, there was some lovely live guitar - not too loud, quite enjoyable. At H&H, you get prompt and friendly service, and best of all: a basket of breads! Biscuits, cornbread, banana muffins - all three were delicious, and a great sampling for those who want to taste a little bit of everything (moi).

This past Sunday, I was determined to have one of those beautiful Bloodies. I opted for one made from Tomatillos, resulting in a beautiful garden green color. Notes of cilantro, celery and cucumber made this especially flavorful, with a smoky salt rim, and special garnishes including celery, cucumber, lime and a wedge of smoked gouda cheese! It was incredibly easy to sip and really tasted like a serving of vegetables. I'll take it. My dining partner's was more traditional, but with a habanero-infused cocktail sausage.
The brunch menu is fabulous, with an extensive selection. I finally settled on the Barcelona Breakfast Tostada after much back and forth. I'm so glad I did - it's unique, with a layer of white chicken chili on a thin, 12 inch tortilla, which reminded me of a flavorful and texturally exciting refried beans. Two fried eggs, pico de gallo, cheese and a spicy Ranchero sauce round out the dish, and every bite has a little bit of runny yolk - it's delicious. You can get spuds or pimiento cheese grits, and while the cheese flavor in the grits were lacking, they were thick and creamy.
For those who like the classic eggs benedict, you'll be tickled with H&H's preparation. You get grilled ciabatta as your base instead of an english muffin, and several layers of thinly sliced ham rests underneath two medium poached eggs, a nice change from too runny of a yolk.
If you're in the mood for lunch, H&H might just have one of the best burgers in town. It blends Ground Chuck and Ground Sirloin, grilled to order, and topped with bacon, cheese and a fried egg. I'm no burger queen, but this was outstanding. The seasoning was just right, and the money bite captured all of those rich flavors. My dining partner smartly chose sauteed spinach as a side, with briny olives, tomatoes and parmesan cheese to boot.

Everything I tasted at brunch was excellent, and I'll be very likely to return on another Sunday, as well as during the week to try their regular menu. C&S very much approves of H&H. If you have been swept away with all the new hot spots in town, you should check out H&H again. This place has stuck around for a reason.